Diamond

Diamonds are our most popular gem. They have great brilliance, plus the delightful quality known as fire or dispersion — the ability to take in white light and throw back flashes of color. Diamonds are graded on four qualities: Color, Clarity, Cut, and Carat.

The closer a diamond is to being colorless, the greater its value. Colors D, E and F are the highest grades described as ‘near colorless.’ The clarity is determined by the size and number of inclusions, with Flawless being the highest grade.

The ideal angle for diamond pavilion facets is 41 degrees. A well-cut diamond maximizes brilliance and fire. As a rule, it is usually best to go with quality rather than size.

Value & Rarity

Smaller diamonds are more common than large ones, so smaller diamonds cost less per carat. A diamond costing $900/ct at ½ carat might cost $4000/ct at a full carat.

Diamonds in the white range of color (G, H, I or J) with clarity grades SI1 or SI2 are visually wonderful — bright, lively, and dazzling. Most people will get more enjoyment from a higher quality dazzler than a larger but mediocre gem.

You should spend six months income on an engagement ring. I know that, I heard it on television! For a salesman that is a great idea. However, picking a diamond is something much more personal than finances.

Economics vary from person to person and family to family. I wouldn’t presume to advise you on how much you can afford, but I can help you wade through the morass of grading information and put it in common language.

As a rule, I suggest diamonds that are in the white range of color, (G, H, I or J,) and those with clarity grades SI1 or SI2. Visually these are wonderful diamonds. They are bright and lively they will dazzle all your friends!

You might consider a lower grade of color if the right deal was presented to you. An L graded diamond can look white in a yellow gold setting and be quite brilliant. The fact that it costs less per size might be worth your while. I wouldn’t recommend looking for this grade, but if you found one in a setting that you really love it would be worth serious consideration.

Going down in clarity grading can occasionally be worth your while too, depending on the individual diamond and setting. Sometimes the “eye visible” inclusion that got it that ranking is insignificant and the overall appearance is still delightful.

Going down further in quality is rarely worth while. I know a lot of jewelers make their living by supposedly underselling the competition, when in fact they are selling lower grade gems. Without better quality diamonds near by to compare with, the customer is often convinced they are getting a great deal. The diamonds sparkle, the price and terms are just, oh, so sweet!

The disappointment comes later. Imagine your fiancée showing off her engagement ring, (something they usually get great joy out of,) only to find hers is dull compared to those of her friends. You no longer have a great deal. The enjoyment of the diamond goes way down when you compare a lower quality gem to a good one.

Please consider this factor carefully! While choosing a diamond is a personal thing and not everyone will have the same opinion, most folks will get more enjoyment from a higher quality dazzler, than a larger but mediocre gem.

How about going up in quality? That is a personal matter. If you get an emotional boost from owning the biggest and the best and can afford it, then you certainly should. However, for most people who simply want a fine gem on their finger, it isn’t necessary.

People who are serious about their diamonds and get to look at a lot of them, get a real joy out of finding those rare gems that are nearly colorless or nearly clean under magnification. These gems are much rarer and therefore demand a higher price. But that does not mean they are much prettier, nor does it mean that you will get more enjoyment out of them.

If you were to set two well cut diamonds side by side, one graded D, VVSI1 and the other G, SI1, you would see very little, if any, difference with the naked eye. You would have a strong emotional reaction when you heard the prices though!

The point is simple, these are the rarest quality gems and the difference is only apparent to the sophisticated diamond appraiser who inspects them carefully with magnification.

There is occasionally a difference between a diamond graded SI1 and SI2. (SI1 is defined as “small inclusions, somewhat easy to find.” SI2 is defined as “small inclusions easy to find.”) When I look at a gem graded SI1 I usually see something like the first illustration. One or two tiny dark spots that have no effect on the brilliance of the gem.

Those graded SI2 have inclusions placed near the center where they are more visible, or many more of them. Some gems graded SI2, like the first illustration, will have no significant difference in brilliance. In an extreme case, where there are many inclusions, (even though none are large enough to be seen without magnification,) they may make up 5% or more of the visible area. That means a 5% or more reduction in brilliance.

One of the most important elements of a diamond’s appearance is the cut. This is a difficult element to judge. Diamonds are rarely cut to ideal proportions, but they have such high optical properties that most of them are still beautiful. Without getting overly technical, you can judge the quality of cutting by simply comparing diamonds side by side. Look for overall brilliance and fire; those little flashes of color. If the diamond you are considering does not have the sparkle of the other gems, then keep looking.

To summarize, it is usually best to go with quality rather than size, but if your budget is limited the rarest qualities may not be worth your money.